Can you visit Zamami Island as a day trip from Naha without joining a tour? Yes—we did exactly that during our Okinawa honeymoon. We turned up at Tomari Port without a reservation, almost missed the ferry, spent a surprisingly long time getting there and ultimately saw far less of the island than we had planned. It was not our most polished day of travel, but it was certainly memorable.
Our independent Zamami Island day trip took us through the small port village, past the statue of Marilyn the dog and on foot to Ama Beach, where we snorkelled for so long that we had to abandon our plan to visit Furuzamami Beach and hurry back for the ferry. Along the way, I was bitten by a territorial triggerfish and later felt quite unwell—although I cannot say whether those things were connected.
This guide follows the day we actually experienced. Where my older Okinawa articles contained conflicting information, I have removed the doubtful claims rather than polishing them into a better story.
IS A ZAMAMI ISLAND DAY TRIP WORTH IT?
Zamami was interesting and I am glad we went. Ama Beach was wonderfully quiet, the snorkelling gave us one of the day’s more dramatic stories and I genuinely loved learning about Marilyn and Shiro—the two dogs separated by the sea between Zamami and Aka.
But shall I be completely honest? If I had to sacrifice one day from our five-day Okinawa itinerary, Zamami would be the one. Our other days stood out more strongly, and using the conventional ferry meant spending around four hours travelling for only a few hours on the island.
That does not make Zamami a bad day trip. It means you should choose it because you specifically want a quiet island, beach time and snorkelling—not because every Okinawa itinerary tells you that you must squeeze it in. If you have only a few days, compare it honestly with the places in our guide to the best things to do in Okinawa.
OUR ZAMAMI ISLAND DAY-TRIP ITINERARY
This is the little itinerary preserved in my original Okinawa guide. The times come from our old trip notes and describe our day; they are not a current ferry timetable:
9:45 am: Take the conventional ferry from Tomari Port in Naha
12:00 pm: Arrive at Zamami Port
12:15 pm: Explore Zamami Village and find something for lunch
1:00 pm: Walk past Marilyn the dog
1:15 pm: Reach Ama Beach and go snorkelling
Before 3:00 pm: Hurry back towards Zamami Port
3:00 pm: Take the ferry back to Naha
5:15 pm: Arrive back in Naha
We had intended to add Furuzamami Beach, but spent too long snorkelling at Ama. Always build your day around the current return sailing rather than copying these historic times.
HOW TO GET FROM NAHA TO ZAMAMI ISLAND
Boats for Zamami leave from Tomari Port in Naha. There are two principal options: the larger conventional Ferry Zamami and the quicker Queen Zamami high-speed boat. They do not necessarily depart from the same part of the port, so check the vessel and boarding location carefully.
We used the conventional ferry. Our old notes record a 9:45 am departure, arrival around noon and a return at about 3:00 pm. That gave us only around three hours ashore. The journey felt long at first, although it became much more interesting as we passed the other Kerama islands.

SHOULD YOU RESERVE THE ZAMAMI FERRY?
We did not reserve a tour or book the ferry in advance. We went to the port to see whether tickets were available—and then nearly ruined the whole plan by running late and having to race to the ferry. It worked, but this is firmly in the category of “things we got away with”, not advice I recommend following.
The official Zamami tourism guidance warns that boats can sell out and recommends advance booking, particularly for day trips and during busier periods. It also warns that arriving without a return ticket can leave you unable to return to Naha as planned. Check the official boat-reservation guidance and the monthly timetable before travelling.
Services are also vulnerable to wind, waves and other operating changes. Do not build a tightly connected flight or train journey around your expected return without allowing for disruption.
OUR FERRY JOURNEY TO ZAMAMI
Once we had completed our undignified dash through the port and were safely aboard, we bought or carried something for breakfast. I remember eating one of those sushi-roll-style snacks on the boat; I cannot remember what Gary chose.
The conventional ferry is not the option to choose if your priority is maximising every minute. However, the slower approach gave us time to watch the islands appear, and I remember the journey becoming more scenic as we passed through the Keramas.
I also remember many passengers getting off at another island. This was probably Aka Island, because conventional services can call there before Zamami, but I cannot confirm the exact calling order on our date. It does fit rather neatly with the story we encountered later.
ARRIVING IN ZAMAMI VILLAGE
Zamami Port brings you into a small village rather than a busy resort town. I had expected more shops and restaurants. Instead, the village felt very quiet, quite a few places appeared to be closed and we struggled to find somewhere for lunch.
We eventually bought something from a tiny convenience shop. I no longer remember exactly what we ate, but I do remember the lesson: do not arrive on a short ferry itinerary assuming that numerous restaurants will be open and waiting for you. Opening days and hours can be limited, so bringing food from Naha—or at least buying something at Tomari Port—is sensible.
The quietness was part of the island’s charm, but it also made the logistics less forgiving. We did not find taxis readily available, and with only a short window before the return ferry, every detour mattered.
WALKING FROM ZAMAMI PORT TO AMA BEACH
We walked west from the port towards Ama Beach. The route was manageable, although our ferry schedule meant we could not stroll without watching the time. I remember passing some kind of tomb or burial place along the way. I have not identified it confidently, so I would rather leave it as a memory than attach the wrong name to it.
A village bus serves Ama Beach and Furuzamami Beach, and rentals are another option for exploring more widely. Current transport arrangements should be checked at Zamami Port or through the official island transport information.
For our simple port-to-Ama route, walking worked. If you want to combine both beaches, viewpoints and lunch during a short conventional-ferry visit, relying entirely on your feet is much less realistic.
MARILYN AND SHIRO: ZAMAMI’S DOG LOVE STORY
On the way to Ama Beach, we passed the statue of Marilyn. Of everything beyond the beach itself, this was the part of Zamami I found most interesting.

The local story concerns Marilyn, who lived on Zamami, and Shiro, a dog living on neighbouring Aka Island. Shiro reportedly swam across the sea to visit her, and Marilyn’s statue faces towards Aka; Shiro has his own statue there. It is a sweet and slightly extraordinary story, made more tangible after watching passengers disembark at the neighbouring island during the ferry journey.
The statue is not an attraction requiring a long visit, but it gives the walk to Ama Beach a lovely sense of place. Official Okinawa visitor information also records the story and the statues facing across the water.
SNORKELLING AT AMA BEACH
Ama Beach was almost deserted when we arrived. The weather was intermittently rainy, which may have discouraged other visitors, although I cannot know whether that was the reason. There was so little activity that changing and settling down felt easy, and we certainly did not have the crowded tropical-beach experience you might expect from photographs of Okinawa.
We had brought full-face snorkelling masks. Gary particularly liked that style because he hates getting salty water on his lips. We entered from the beach and ended up spending far longer in the water than planned.
Ama is associated with sea-turtle sightings, particularly around the shallow seagrass, but wildlife is never guaranteed. I do not remember seeing a turtle and will not pretend that we did. What I do remember is a much smaller and rather more offended resident.
THE TRIGGERFISH INCIDENT
While snorkelling, I apparently ventured too close to a triggerfish’s nest in the sand and was bitten. A slightly less idyllic island encounter—but, in fairness, the fish probably thought I was the problem.
I believe it was a triggerfish because of its nest-defending behaviour, but I cannot identify the precise species after so many years. The practical lesson is simpler: admire reef wildlife from a respectful distance and move away calmly if a fish behaves territorially.
I felt quite unwell after we returned to Naha and walked back to our hotel. I cannot remember whether it was seasickness, something I had eaten, exhaustion or something unrelated, and there is no sound basis for blaming the fish bite. It is simply how the day ended.
AMA BEACH OR FURUZAMAMI BEACH?
Zamami’s two best-known beaches serve slightly different itineraries. Ama Beach suited us because we could walk there from the port, pass Marilyn’s statue and snorkel independently. Furuzamami is the more famous beach in many island guides and can be reached using the village bus or other island transport.
We had intended to visit Furuzamami Beach as well, but—as often happens when we find somewhere we like—we spent far longer snorkelling at Ama than planned. By the time we emerged, our leisurely two-beach itinerary had become a rather less leisurely rush back towards the port.
So, no: we did not spend hours at Furuzamami Beach, despite that claim appearing in an older version of my Okinawa content. If your day follows the limited conventional-ferry schedule, I would choose one beach and enjoy it properly. To attempt both, plan the village bus or another transfer around your return sailing.
GETTING AROUND ZAMAMI WITHOUT A TOUR
You do not need a guided tour for the straightforward route we followed. Zamami Village, Marilyn’s statue and Ama Beach can be combined on foot if you are comfortable walking and have checked the time carefully.
For a wider island itinerary, options include the village bus and locally available rentals. Zamami is small but hilly, so “small island” does not automatically mean that every attraction is an easy walk—particularly in heat, rain or with a ferry deadline hanging over you.
Taxis did not feel plentiful during our visit. We considered taking one to reach the other beach but did not find that an easy last-minute solution. If a transfer is essential to your plan, arrange or verify it rather than assuming a taxi will appear when needed.
HOW LONG DO YOU NEED ON ZAMAMI ISLAND?
A few hours were enough for our port, village, Marilyn statue and Ama Beach route, but not enough to explore Zamami properly. The conventional ferry made the day possible while consuming a large part of it.
The high-speed boat can create a more generous day if its schedule suits you. Staying overnight would make more sense for travellers wanting both beaches, viewpoints, a relaxed meal and time without continually checking the clock.
We stayed in Naha and returned the same afternoon. If you are deciding where to base yourself, our guide to where to stay in Okinawa explains how Naha worked within our wider route.
PRACTICAL TIPS FOR AN INDEPENDENT ZAMAMI DAY TRIP
- Reserve the ferry: Turning up worked for us, but official guidance warns that sailings can sell out.
- Check the correct pier: The conventional ferry and high-speed boat use different boarding areas at Tomari Port.
- Secure your return: Do not assume another convenient sailing will follow if you miss yours.
- Bring food: Zamami Village had fewer open shops and restaurants than we expected.
- Choose one beach on a short visit: Ama plus Furuzamami proved unrealistic for us without faster transport.
- Check the weather and boat status: Island services can change because of sea conditions.
- Snorkel responsibly: Use suitable safety equipment, avoid standing on coral and give wildlife space.
- Watch the clock: A peaceful beach makes it surprisingly easy to forget the ferry.
WOULD WE VISIT ZAMAMI ISLAND AGAIN?
I would return if we had enough time to stay overnight or take the faster boat and explore more of the island. I would like to see Furuzamami properly rather than treat it as a box to tick between ferry departures.
For our original honeymoon itinerary, however, Zamami is the day I would remove first if time were limited. Taketomi’s architecture and buffalo cart, Iriomote’s extraordinary jungle experience and our road trip around Okinawa Honto all left stronger impressions.
Zamami’s appeal was quieter: an uncrowded beach, a slow journey among the Kerama islands and the improbable story of a determined dog swimming across the sea for love. It was worthwhile—but it is not compulsory. And sometimes that is precisely the sort of honest answer an itinerary needs.
For seasonal conditions and what to expect across the year, read our guide to the best time to visit Okinawa. You may also want our guide to the best food in Okinawa—but for Zamami itself, carry a reliable lunch backup.



